Geography 101 - Location, Location, Location

"Location, location, location" is a common mantra in real estate. It was also something that our guide stressed repeatedly in connection with the development of important cities and fortresses and took on personal significance at different times and locations during our time in Israel. 
In Caesarea, on the first morning of our tour, our guide introduced a theme that he would develop throughout our time with him. Since location is key to understanding many aspects of biblical history, he did his best to makes sure that we would remember the four things that are needed for a city, palace, fortress: good water supply, a natural defence—usually a high point,  proximity to a major road, and food supply. 
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Interestingly, our tour started at a place that violated all four of these criteria -  Caesarea Maritima. This contradiction of the norm was also our introduction to Herod the Great whose influential presence in history would often reappear during our tour.   His architectural achievements are stunning and highlight his creative genius and and ‘over the top’ approach to all things. Although of Arab origin, he was a practicing Jew.  He launched many important building campaigns throughout Judea such as the rebuilding of the Temple begun in 19-20 BC the construction of palaces at Masada, Caesarea Maritima, and the Herodion near Bethlehem; and the building of aqueducts and roads throughout the region.  He effectively ruled Palestine in cooperation with the Romans for over three decades, creating a stable period for growth and enterprise.

His personal life and kingship stand in stark contrast due to a dark and cruel streak in character. Ruthless, violent, brutal, he suffered from immense paranoia and mental instability—killed his father-in-law, several of his ten wives, and two of his sons. What kind of monster does that to his own family members?It is no surprise that Caesar Augustus reportedly quipped, “It is better to be Herod’s pig than son” (Macrobius, Saturnalia 2:4:2). The joke being, that since Herod was a Jew and would not eat pork, his pig would be safe. But his sons were not safe.

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The oldest Roman Theater in Israel, with a seating capacity of 3,500 and where a dedicatory inscription was found reading: “Pontius Pilate, the prefect of Judea, has dedicated to the people of Caesarea a temple in honor of Tiberius”

Here at Caesarea Maritima we received the first glimpse of this paradoxical historical figure. After his introduction, I felt compelled to ask, “What made Herod build a harbour and city that would grow to have an estimated population of 125,000 despite the availability of water, food supply, natural fortifications and proximity to a main road?” 
Aron shook his shoulders and said, “Who knows? Can anyone really understand who Herod was? Can anyone comprehend how that tortured creative mind worked and what compelled him to build all that he did?
Then he went on to tell us how Herod overcame each of the lacking components.
The water problem was solved by an aqueduct built by the Sixth and Tenth Legions to bring water from the Shuni Springs 7.5 km north at the base of Mount Carmel.

The lack of natural fortification was overcome by the construction of moat around the palace area and the creation of the harbour Sebastos with the massive breakwaters that provided safety for 300 ships. It was  constructed on a coast that had no natural harbors and at its height served as one of the most impressive harbours of its time, rivaling Cleopatra’s harbor at Alexandria.  Josephus wrote: “Although the location was generally unfavorable, [Herod] contended with the difficulties so well that the solidity of the construction could not be overcome by the sea, and its beauty seemed finished off without impediment.”
The harbour brought ships that connected the city to the rest of the world. It also made it worthwhile to build a road to connect to the Via Maris.

The food problem was solved by transporting food from farming areas to the east.  All you need is money and man power, of which he had both.  
Providing entertainment was important to Herod. In addition to a theatre and amphitheatre, Herod also had a Hippodrome constructed measuring about 900 feet long and 150 feet wide, it could seat about 15,000 and was used for chariot racing. Our guide pointed out the best seats - the end of the oval (see lower left0 where the turning occurred and where most accidents would take place.  

The hippodrome was also the location of one of Herod’s last, and most cruel acts when he ordered that one person in every family should be slain so that the whole kingdom would be forced to mourn at the occasion of his death.

The Jewish historian Josephus records:
He commanded that all the principal men of the entire Jewish nation wheresoever they lived, should be called to him.
Accordingly, there were a great number that came, because the whole nation was called, and all men heard of this call, and death was the penalty of such as should despise the letters that were sent to call them.
And now the king was in a wild rage against them all, the innocent as well as those that had afforded him ground for accusations.
And when they were come, he ordered them all to be shut up in the hippodrome, and sent for his sister Salome, and her husband Alexas, and spoke thus to them:—“I shall die in a little time . . . but what principally troubles me is this, that I shall die without being lamented, and without such mourning as men usually expect at a king’s death.” . . . .
He took care, when he was departing out of this life, that the whole nation should be put into mourning, and indeed made desolate of their dearest kindred, when he gave order that one out of every family should be slain, although they had done nothing that was unjust, or against him, nor were they accused of any other crimes [Josephus, Antiquities of the Jews 17:6:5-6].

​Small wonder that some have described him as a “a total moral monster!”
Archaeologists have found prison cells in Herod’s praetorium (palace).  They are located underneath the grill seen in the picture below. It seems that Paul spent at least two years of his life in Herod’s Palace and he may have been in these cells. 
He (Felix) said, “I will give you a hearing when your accusers arrive.” And he commanded him to be guarded in Herod's praetorium. Acts 23:35 (ESV)
The palace, theatre and Hippodrome are in close proximity to each other.  We only walked a few minutes to get from one to the other.  Undoubtedly, at times, sounds of the chariot races and the crowds’ responses would have drifted to his cell. 

While Paul was in his cell, just a few hundred metes away, Herod and his immediate circle of family, friends and political guests would have been indulging in self-gratification in a rock-cut pool (see rectangular area in the lower palace area surrounded by the Mediterranean Sea. Open to the water on three sides, this roofed in area would have been cool on even the hottest days.

TAKEAWAY
—The events of the New Testament listed above took place during a vibrant political, cultural and economic time in the nation of Israel. It was the first century equivalent of our life. Reading the gospel account, it seems that Philip and Paul were oblivious to the things that were important to many in Caesarea who must have seemed to be important people: big theatre events, the races in the Hippodrome, political advancement, culture.  Instead they concerned themselves with the kingdom of God, the proclamation of the gospel—that which God reminds us in His Word is lasting and eternally significant.
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—God can use us in our culture, just as he did Philip and Paul. In the big picture of God’s kingdom, it is the seemingly ‘unnoticed’ and ‘insignificant’ events of faithful Christians that is really important. God asked Luke to record what was of kingdom significance.

—The ability to visualize somewhat the context and surroundings of Paul’s two year prison time in Caesarea.  The ‘stage’ that Paul reached an audience of some of the most important political figures of the day was a prison cell.  One of them Felix, already had ‘a rather accurate knowledge of the Way,. and often invited Paul to talk.  Only eternity will show us the impact of Paul’s preaching done ‘on location” as described in Acts 23-27. 

But Felix, having a rather accurate knowledge of the Way, put them off, saying, “When Lysias the tribune comes down, I will decide your case.” Then he gave orders to the centurion that he should be kept in custody but have some liberty, and that none of his friends should be prevented from attending to his needs.
After some days Felix came with his wife Drusilla, who was Jewish, and he sent for Paul and heard him speak about faith in Christ Jesus. And as he reasoned about righteousness and self-control and the coming judgment, Felix was alarmed and said, “Go away for the present. When I get an opportunity I will summon you.” At the same time he hoped that money would be given him by Paul. So he sent for him often and conversed with him. When two years had elapsed, Felix was succeeded by Porcius Festus. And desiring to do the Jews a favor, Felix left Paul in prison. Acts 24:22-27 (ESV)

There is a lot to process as I think about Paul’s commitment to spreading the gospel and willingly embracing imprisonment as part of this commitment.​