The Gates of Hades

“If Christ spent most of his time in the small triangle created by the cities of Capernaum, Chorizon and Bethsaidaarea, why then did he then walk with his disciples more than 50 km north to Caesarea Philippi to ask them two questions?” 
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More than a day before our trip to the “Finger of the Galilee” in northern Israel our guide began asking us this question.  It was repeated a number of times, every time in fact that he talked about the small triangle of Christ’s ministry.  It was clear that he considered this visit to  very significant. He  certainly got my attention.

On the fourth day of our tour we arrived at the site above and listened as Matthew 16:13-16 was read.
Now when Jesus came into the district of Caesarea Philippi, he asked his disciples, “Who do people say that the Son of Man is?”  
And they said, “Some say John the Baptist, others say Elijah, and others Jeremiah or one of the prophets.” 
He said to them, “But who do you say that I am?” 
Simon Peter replied, “You are the Christ, the Son of the living God.” 
​And Jesus answered him, “Blessed are you, Simon Bar-Jonah! For flesh and blood has not revealed this to you, but my Father who is in heaven. And I tell you, you are Peter, and on this rock I will build my church, and the gates of hell shall not prevail against it. I will give you the keys of the kingdom of heaven, and whatever you bind on earth shall be bound in heaven, and whatever you loose on earth shall be loosed in heaven.” Then he strictly charged the disciples to tell no one that he was the Christ. Matthew 16:13-20
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As we explored the site and listened to the history of the site, the special significance of Jesus’s trip became clearer and clearer.  Here is what I learnt.

Caesarea Philippi's location was especially unique because it stood at the base of a cliff where spring water flowed.  At one time, the water ran directly from the mouth of a cave set in the bottom of the cliff.  Located in a lush area near the foot of Mount Hermon, the city was dominated by immoral activities and pagan worship. In Old Testament times, this northeastern area of Israel became a center for Baal worship. Later Caesarea Philippi became the religious center for worship of the Greek god, Pan. In the cliff that stood above the city, local people built shrines and temples to Pan. Years later, when Romans conquered the territory, Herod Philip rebuilt the city and named it after himself. But Caesarea Philippi continued to focus on worship of Greek gods. 

Peter Fast, one of our hosts, reads Matthew 16:13-20

Gates of Hades. Originally water flowed from cave to river

To the pagan mind, the cave and spring water at Caesarea Philippi created a gate to the underworld, where fertility gods lived during the winter. They believed that their city was literally at the gates of the underworld, the gates of hell. The pagans of Jesus' day commonly believed that their fertility gods lived in the underworld during the winter and returned to earth each spring. They saw water as a symbol of the underworld and thought that their gods traveled to and from that world through caves.

​In order to entice the return of their god, Pan, each year, the people of Caesarea Philippi engaged in horrible deeds, including prostitution and sexual interaction between humans and goats. ​

The Grotto of the god Pan

Since Caesarea Philippi was like a red-light district in the world of the disciples, the disciples may very well have been shocked to be brought to this area since devout Jews would have avoided any contact with the despicable acts committed there. Standing at what pagans considered a literal "Gate of Hades," the disciples may have been amazed at Jesus' statement to Peter.. They had studied under their rabbi for several years, and now he was commissioning them to a huge task: to attack evil, and to build the church on the very places that were most filled with moral corruption. Yet it was here in this pagan setting that Christ was to present a clear challenge and statement of power.  The church of Jesus Christ would be a church that would be capable of overcoming the worst evils. The church was not to hide from evil but confront it.
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Sitting in this location, I thought of how different these words would have sounded in Jerusalem or the Galilee where the population was primarily Jewish. The impact of the church on pagan culture would have been lost.  As well, the church would have been seen  as Jewish in nature. But here, the church was clearly presented as a solution for a pagan world. Christ brought his disciples here so that his words would have maximum impact. The church was for all people - Jews and Gentiles. 

TAKEAWAY
—OFFENCE or DEFENCE  Jesus presented a clear challenge with his words at Caesarea Philippi.  His church (ekklēsia) would be an assembly of those ‘called out’ to confront a pagan world, not hide from it. When it comes to the battle against evil, are we on defence or offence?
— We do not need to fear the pagan world. 
— Christ sees us as Overcomers.
— Christ, as master teacher, realized the power context and ‘moving’ the classroom
— Christ, as master teacher, knew how to use a visual aid
— Christ, as master teacher, knew how to make a point, even if it meant a long walk.
— New understanding of what has often been a confusing or meaningless passage for me